Backflush= piece of cake

[Mister Moo]

For example, backflush SOP's:

I am not sure why this necessary but simple procedure causes so many folks to pause. A spoonful of Urnex in a blank handle; lock into a hot machine and run the pump until it goes quiet; repeat pump on/off until draining water is grunge-free. Remove handle, rinse it off and repeat without Urnex, rinsing residual cleaner from the 3-way solenoid, until water runs clear. The good barista also wipes off the grouphead, dispersion screen, gasket, etc. with a wet cloth and/or soft brush and clean water to make everything just right.

If your (Gaggia) machine spits hot water when you pressurize a blank, it'll spit hot water AND acetic acid when you backflush with Urnex. Take necessary precautions by defending yourself (and your property) from the scary hot acid grungy spray that usually dribbles neatly into the drain tray on practically every espresso machine made. Like, you know, put an old towel by the overflow tube and never stick your eyeball up close to see what's about to spurt out.

C'mon! People! We are pipe and cigar guys. A little hot acid spray won't keep us from cleaning our gear.

[floydpink]

The way I understand Gaggia USA's position to be is a legal one, like McDonalds warning you the coffee is hot.

Many people also claim the pressure will wear out the pump after many years due to the position of the tank or something in a Gaggia.

I don't know for sure but will keep backflushing as prolonged and Gaggia use aren't looking likely for my restless soul.

[floydpink]

Since we're examining the innards of our beloved machines, I keep seeing recommendations to replace the o-ring gasket once or twice a year.

Mine looks like new, so I am wondering if you guys replace yours that often?

Originally Posted by floydpink

Since we're examining the innards of our beloved machines, I keep seeing recommendations to replace the o-ring gasket once or twice a year.

Mine looks like new, so I am wondering if you guys replace yours that often?

Anita is a little over two now, and I havent' replaced the screen or gasket yet, but I'm good about cleaning. Lately I have been noticing some dribbalage however....no, I don't have prostrate problems,

[Mister Moo]

Originally Posted by Resipsa

...a little over two [years old] now... ...I have been noticing some dribbalage...

A grouphead gasket that has begun to leak has already lost its elasticity; in other words, through continued heat and compression the thing has gone just about rock hard. To spare yourself the inevitable unpleasant gouging out of a failed, glued-in grouphead gasket, change them once a year while they are still pliable and still easy to remove.

O-rings, associated with steam wand seals, are best changed before they begin to leak, too. I say, be a big shot and spring for the $0.65 early. Change the o-ring when you replace the grouphead gasket.

Originally Posted by Mister Moo

A grouphead gasket that has begun to leak has already lost its elasticity; in other words, through continued heat and compression the thing has gone just about rock hard. To spare yourself the inevitable unpleasant gouging out of a failed, glued-in grouphead gasket, change them once a year while they are still pliable and still easy to remove.

O-rings, associated with steam wand seals, are best changed before they begin to leak, too. I say, be a big shot and spring for the $0.65 early. Change the o-ring when you replace the grouphead gasket.

Thanks Dan, I'll conduct the operation!

[floydpink]

Originally Posted by Mister Moo

A grouphead gasket that has begun to leak has already lost its elasticity; in other words, through continued heat and compression the thing has gone just about rock hard. To spare yourself the inevitable unpleasant gouging out of a failed, glued-in grouphead gasket, change them once a year while they are still pliable and still easy to remove.

O-rings, associated with steam wand seals, are best changed before they begin to leak, too. I say, be a big shot and spring for the $0.65 early. Change the o-ring when you replace the grouphead gasket.

As usual, I'm screwing up my terminology on the gaskets and other parts.

Regarding the grouphead gasket,

I noticed on machines like the Expobar, there is a ridge above the shower screen where you are supposed to kinda pry off the gasket in a matter similar to opening a paint can.

I'd have to look at the diagram to figure out the steam wand o-ring gasket but imagine it shouldn't be hard to get to.

My grouphead gasket seems pretty well seated in there and now I have something to obsess over for a few days until a new gasket arrives. I'd imagine an angled awl should do the trick in this case.

Great tips, but feels like hot citric backflush to my eyeballs.

Thanks Dan. anything I need to do inside my grinder tommorow????

[Mister Moo]

Originally Posted by floydpink

As usual, I'm screwing up my terminology on the gaskets and other parts.

Regarding the grouphead gasket,

I noticed on machines like the Expobar, there is a ridge above the shower screen where you are supposed to kinda pry off the gasket in a matter similar to opening a paint can.

I'd have to look at the diagram to figure out the steam wand o-ring gasket but imagine it shouldn't be hard to get to.

My grouphead gasket seems pretty well seated in there and now I have something to obsess over for a few days until a new gasket arrives. I'd imagine an angled awl should do the trick in this case.

Great tips, but feels like hot citric backflush to my eyeballs.

Thanks Dan. anything I need to do inside my grinder tommorow????

I asked my dentist if he'd sell me a dental (pick) tool a few years back - a real heavy duty one. He had a drawer full of broken hand tools which included a very stout pick with a semi-curved hookie thing on it. It was perfect for getting around, and then under, a gasket without scoring the metal grouphead seat. No charge, he said.

You may find an awl works if the gasket is still quite pliable. If it's hard and brittle you may think about finding something else.